Short answer: Set the clock first, then assign each valve to a zone, give every zone a start time and a run duration, and finish with a seasonal adjust. Most mistakes come from overlapping start times, wrong AM/PM, or forgetting to set the year. The same four steps work on mechanical, digital and smart controllers … Read more
Short answer: Divide your zone’s available flow by one head’s flow: Number of heads = Total zone GPM ÷ GPM per head. A typical ¾″ hose bibb supplies ~6–9 GPM, so a zone of 2.0-GPM spray heads holds about 3–4 heads; a zone of 4.0-GPM rotors holds about 1–2. Always stay under the supply and … Read more
Short answer: Pick by area and pressure: fixed spray for small, low-precipitation beds; rotary (rotor) for medium-to-large lawns; impact for big areas and windy sites; MP Rotator for water-saving matched-precipitation coverage; and bubbler for trees and shrubs that need a slow soak. Match head type to your zone’s GPM budget — see how many heads … Read more
Short answer: Neither is “better” universally — drip wins on water efficiency (typically 30–50% less water than sprinklers), disease control and precision, while sprinklers win on covering open lawn and large areas fast. Use drip for beds, vegetables, shrubs and trees; use sprinklers for turf. Most yards do both, split into zones. The right answer … Read more
Short answer: Three filter families cover almost every home drip system. A screen filter (mesh 100–200) is cheapest and best for clean municipal water. A disc filter handles dirtier or turbid water better and resists clogging. A media (sand) filter is for very dirty well water and larger systems. The single most important number is … Read more